After recently replacing the clutch plates, my Z1R was finally back in top condition. But why was I in such a hurry to get it fixed? Because on this very day, I had a long-awaited meeting with someone.
A Connection from the Past
Back in the summer of 1999, I had returned from Australia and embarked on my first long tour in a year—a journey through Hokkaido. Around the fifth or sixth day after entering the region, I was heading toward the tip of the Shiretoko Peninsula. I had heard of a place at the peninsula’s end where they served bear and sea lion meat (now closed) and offered free accommodation at a rider’s house if you dined there.
As planned, after eating a bear dish, I asked to stay at the rider’s house. The owner agreed but warned, “There’s already another guest, so be friendly.”
The rider’s house was nothing more than a prefab-like building with bunk beds. The other guests were older riders from Akita, riding American-style bikes. They sported small half helmets, sunglasses, and leather vests over their shirts—a classic “bad-boy biker” look before it became mainstream.
They were probably in their late 40s or 50s, definitely over a decade older than me. But perhaps noticing I was traveling alone, they went out of their way to chat with me.
The next day, we had another meal together, exchanged contact information, and promised to meet again if I ever came to Akita. But, like many chance encounters on the road, we never did. I vaguely remember exchanging addresses, but neither of us ever wrote. Time simply passed.
The Power of the Internet
Fast forward about 15 years, and out of the blue, a message appeared on my SNS: “Hey, didn’t we meet back then?” Thanks to technology—often frustrating yet undeniably useful—we reconnected online.
One might think this would lead to more interactions, but Akita and Miyagi are farther apart than they seem. Neither of us traveled much outside our hometowns, so we never met again in person.
Finally, a Reunion After 22 Years
What changed? One major factor was the COVID-19 pandemic. Watching people pass away without being able to say goodbye, or only reuniting with loved ones as ashes in an urn, was a harsh reality check.
If there’s someone you want to meet, shouldn’t you make the effort?
It was ironic, as meeting up contradicted pandemic precautions. But when I reached out, the response was immediate—”Let’s do it!”
The rider, whom I’ll call “I-san” for convenience, now lived near Kisakata. Since I also wanted to visit Mount Chokai, it was perfect timing. We agreed to meet in Kisakata.
Fully Geared Up for the Ride
I left home around 6:30 AM. The fastest route would have been the bypass, but I chose the scenic countryside roads instead. I wound through mountain passes and headed toward Yamagata via the Nabekoshi Pass.
Nabekoshi Pass, from the Miyagi side, is a fantastic ride with a river running alongside it. The road is wide, smooth, and great for both cars and bikes—even beginners would enjoy it. But with good roads come risks; overenthusiastic riders sometimes misjudge their limits. This day, I saw several bikes ahead, so I kept a safe distance.
Arriving in Obanazawa, Yamagata, I turned north and followed the Mogami River westward, a classic route toward Sakata.
The golden rice fields stretched before me as I cruised leisurely toward the Chokai Blue Line. But first, I detoured to visit a waterfall recommended by a friend.
Visiting the Dōhara Waterfall
Dōhara Waterfall is a spring-fed waterfall where Mount Chokai’s underground water seeps through rocks. The water emerges from both sides of a small shrine-like structure, and some say the two streams have different tastes.
Although it’s in a quiet spot, tourists kept coming, filling bottles with the fresh water. I tried both streams but, being no connoisseur, couldn’t tell the difference! (LOL)
From there, I continued toward the Chokai Blue Line, a broad, winding mountain road.
That day, the sky was clear, offering views of the sea and even the Oga Peninsula in the distance. The parking lot was packed, and some cars had to park on the roadside. I passed dozens of bikes before descending toward Akita.
A Long-Awaited Reunion
At the foot of the descent, a lone car was waiting. It was Mr.I(I-san), the rider I had met in Hokkaido 22 years ago.
We barely had time for formal greetings before he took me to another waterfall, Mototaki Subsoil Waterfall. This waterfall is unique—rather than water cascading from a river, it emerges from the rocky mountainside after decades of underground filtration. An astonishing 50,000 tons of water flows out daily.
After enjoying the scenery, we grabbed a late lunch, and then it was time to part ways. I continued north on Route 7, heading to my campsite on the Oga Peninsula.
Camping on the Oga Peninsula
I had camped here 20 years ago with a Harley group. Back then, we stayed at a hotel-owned campsite overlooking the Japan Sea sunset, but it had its drawbacks.
Motorcycles and cars weren’t allowed into the campsite, so we had to park at the hotel lot and carry our gear a long way using a cart. Doing this alone was a hassle.
This time, I chose the Namahage Auto Campground, a family-friendly site with excellent facilities where you can park next to your tent. But convenience comes at a cost—4,980 yen per night! Compared to the free or dirt-cheap campsites most riders prefer, this felt like a luxury.
Being a holiday weekend, reservations were tight. Though I was on a waitlist, a direct email to the facility got me a spot. Lucky!
A Relaxing Night Under the Stars
Setting up my tent quickly, I grabbed a simple dinner: lamb from a supermarket and Lawson’s hormone stew. Instead of idling, I hurried to a nearby hot spring, as the pandemic had forced early closing at 8 PM.
After a soak, I returned to my tent, intending to enjoy a campfire. But my firewood supply was too small—burning out in 10 minutes! (LOL) Exhausted, I turned in before lights-out at 10 PM.
The next morning, I woke up before sunrise. Despite concerns about cold nights, it was warmer than expected. But in a few weeks, it would likely be much chillier.
After a slow breakfast of bacon, eggs, and coffee, I started packing. My journey wasn’t over—I was heading further north to Cape Nyudo.
To be continued in the next part!
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