After September, the temperature and humidity finally drop, making me feel like hitting the road for a long tour.
Just like last year, I took advantage of the long weekend in September to go on an adventure.
This time, the destination was Mt. Gassan.
Along with Mt. Haguro and Mt. Yudono, it is one of the “Three Mountains of Dewa,” representing Yamagata Prefecture and an ancient place for ascetic training.
Although it doesn’t quite reach 2,000 meters, it’s such a rugged mountain that it even cuts through the Yamagata Expressway. You can ski there well into summer.
In fact, the snowfall is so intense that the ski season doesn’t even start until April.
Expecting heavy traffic, I left at 6 a.m.
As usual, I ended up overpacking.
The bottom box contains cooking utensils, a cooker, and a stove. The top box has rain gear, a change of clothes for one day, and a towel.
Strapped on with a net are my sleeping bag and tent.
The sleeping bag is a Paddy Pallin product I bought 25 years ago at an outdoor shop in Sydney.
It’s an Australian brand, but I wonder if they still sell it in Japan…
I used to have a lightweight, compact down sleeping bag for summer, but apparently, someone took it.
The gear I used when I tackled the Shirakami Line in the Shirakami Mountains just a year ago.
It all fit into one box… Why now??
By the way, this is the gear I brought for a 10-day Hokkaido tour 20 years ago.
I think I had a rain suit in the tank bag too, but the tent and clothes were all packed in this setup.
When did I become so bad at packing? (laughs)
Thanks to the low number of cars, it took just about an hour to cross into Yamagata Prefecture.
Mountain roads between Miyagi and Yamagata are usually plagued by rain, so I was a bit worried about the conditions, but this time I managed to get through without any issues.
I passed through the farmlands of Kahoku Town and got onto Route 112.
Not sure about the usual situation, but maybe because it was still early, the traffic wasn’t too bad, even in the middle of a long holiday.
After passing the Sagae Dam and Lake Gassan, I drove a bit further and there it was—the “Gassan Mountain Spring Water Group.”
Apparently, it’s one of Japan’s top 100 natural waters.
The closest one is just a few hundred meters off Route 112, sticking out from the roadside like a concrete pipe.
It could be easy to miss on your first visit, but since there might be parked cars from people coming to get water, it’s surprisingly easy to find.
At first, I planned to just grab a drink here and move on.
But then I started wanting to see a more “famous spring” kind of place. (laughs)
After checking it out, I found that there was another spring near the Yamagata Prefectural Natural Museum.
Gassan Spring Cluster
I rode the bike for another 10 minutes or so.
There it was—Yamagata Prefectural Natural Museum.
But there was no sign of a spring, and nobody seemed to be collecting water.
Usually, where spring water gushes out, you’ll see guys with huge water tanks filling them to the brim, right? (laughs)
I entered the museum and asked the staff.
“Is there a spring around here?”
“Yes, there is.”
Got it!
“Where exactly?”
She opened up a map and pointed out the way.
“About 20 minutes.”
“One way?”
“Yes. Oh, and please fill out this form first.”
What? Is this a climb?
Can I even manage with these slippery ring boots?
I hesitated a bit, but I decided to start the hike anyway.
The path itself was well-maintained and easy to walk, but man, it was hot.
Maybe it was because of the approaching typhoon, but it felt like midsummer despite being mid-September.
As I kept climbing, wondering “Are we there yet? Are we there yet?”, I started to hear the sound of flowing water.
Drawn in by the gentle murmur of the stream, my pace picked up almost unconsciously.
Completely drenched in sweat, I finally reached the spring point, “Gassan Spring.”
It took less than 15 minutes to get there, probably because I hurried up the path.
Most of the spring water spots I’ve visited on past trips were well-maintained, with water gushing out like a fountain.
But this place was different—it was like the very origin of the spring itself. I’d never seen anything quite like it.
It didn’t really seem set up for collecting water either.
Resigned to the situation, I balanced one foot on a rock to scoop some water, only to slip on the moss and take a one-legged dive. (Tears)
Luckily, it was just a split second and my boots kept the water out, so I was spared from soaking my foot.
Even so, the clarity of the endlessly gushing water was just… breathtakingly beautiful.
I spotted some aquatic insects skittering around, but I figured a little bit wouldn’t hurt. Going full “self-responsibility mode,” I drank straight from the source.
Delicious.
I couldn’t tell just how different it was from other spring water I’ve tasted, but I could have stared at it forever without getting bored.
And then, out of nowhere, a little lizard popped its head out.
Adorable little guy.
When I got back to the Nature Center and checked the time, it was still just 10 a.m.
Since I had plenty of time, I decided to stretch my legs and head over to Gassan Ski Resort.
Gassan Ski Resort
he mountain road to Gassan Ski Resort wasn’t all that tough.
The road was wide and pretty easy to ride, but there were a few blind spots, so I had to stay alert for oncoming traffic.
It’s not the kind of road where you can barrel through with your eyes glued to the path—more of a leisurely ride while sneaking glances at the scenery.
The weather was great, and since it was right in the middle of a long weekend, the parking lot was pretty packed.
Aside from us, it was mostly hikers carrying trekking poles.
I don’t remember seeing any plain old sightseers around. (laughs)
Come to think of it, there was a sign just before the parking lot that said, “Please cooperate with the parking fee.”
I asked one of the staff managing the parking, “Where do I pay?”
He replied, “Oh, it’s a public parking lot, so no fee is needed.”
I didn’t quite get it, but hey, free parking!
I came down the mountain and got back on Route 112.
After about an hour of riding, I arrived at the center of Tsuruoka City.
Time to refuel.
Time for the usual fuel efficiency check.
182 km on 8.28 liters… which means 21.9 km per liter?
Even with a 38 mm MIKUNI-TM carb in touring mode (up to 3000 RPM), it gets this much mileage?
Maybe it’s even better than the stock vacuum carb.
Around this time, the temperature started climbing even higher.
The roadside thermometers I passed kept showing over 35°C.
It wasn’t just summer—it was hotter than summer.
I continued south on Route 7.
Usually, I’m more used to winding through ria coastlines, so cruising along the Sea of Japan side felt refreshing.
The way the town, road, and coastline seem to blend together is quite a unique vibe.
Roadside Station Atsumi and Atsumi Onsen
Lunch was at “Roadside Station Atsumi.”
I was planning to get there a bit earlier, but with the mini-hike and the ski resort detour, I ended up about an hour behind schedule.
Still, I managed to get a table without much of a wait.
Besides the restaurant, there are all sorts of shops lined up here.
They were having a “Red Shrimp Fair” that day, but by the time I finished my lunch, the stuff I was aiming for was already sold out… (tears)
There were also grilled scallops and turban shells, as well as other foods on offer, but honestly, it was just too damn hot to feel like doing anything.
From here on out, the word “hot” is going to come up a lot, but just bear with me. (laughs)
Needing a reset for both body and mind, I headed about 10 minutes down the road to “Atsumi Onsen.”
I didn’t know this before, but this hot spring has been around for about a thousand years.
Not knowing which one was good, I went with a hotel that offered day-use baths called “Tachibanaya.”
The place had a luxurious feel, and while the bathing fee was a bit high at 1,000 yen, the spacious indoor and open-air baths felt like a resort.
They even provided hand towels, lent out fluffy bath towels, and had a bunch of amenities.
Honestly, I was tempted to just stay there for the night. (laughs)
Even though the parking lot was only about a 5-minute walk away, they still offered a car shuttle service. VIP treatment!
I felt a bit embarrassed getting picked up in style while riding my beat-up old bike. (laughs)
Campground: Furusato Village Takaya Fureai Plaza
After refreshing both body and mind, I headed back towards the Gassan area.
I was a bit torn when it came to choosing a campground.
Right in front of the Higashidatori River, where the mythical Yamagata creature “Takitaro” is said to dwell… or not.
There’s also a fishing pond nearby, and if you’re serious about fishing, there are plenty of good spots deeper in the mountains.
Camping with a bike costs 500 yen, and they have toilets and cooking facilities.
Although it’s not a hot spring, a nearby inn called “Asahiya” offers bath access (by reservation).
Probably not too crowded, so it’s a great spot if you want peace and quiet.
But here’s the problem: the nearest place to get food is over 20 km away, and the closest hot spring is almost 30 km.
Personally, I prefer the “eat, bathe, sleep” sequence, but that means after eating dinner at the campground, I’d have to go out again to find a bath.
Since most baths close around 9:00 pm, that means I’d need to finish eating and cleaning up by 7:00 pm. That’s kind of a pain.
Another option was the “Shonai Hagurosan Vacation Village Campground“, located halfway up Mount Haguro.
The hotel itself is quite impressive, and naturally, the campground is also well-maintained.
Even though the bath access has some time restrictions, campground users can still take a dip.
Sure, I could probably survive a day or two without a bath, but if I’m camping, why not enjoy a soak?
The campground has toilets and cooking facilities, and it’s well-equipped overall.
The price is pretty steep, though. Even at the free site, it’s 2,000 yen per spot, plus a 600 yen per person accommodation fee.
Well, I guess it makes sense given the amenities, but still…
One downside is that you can’t park your bike or car right next to the campsite.
f you insist on parking right next to your tent, there’s also an auto site option.
But honestly, that was a bit over my budget, and since it’s a solo camping trip, I wanted somewhere quieter.
That’s when I found “Furusato Village Takaya Fureai Plaza”.
Located southeast of the center of Tsuruoka City, it’s a public facility in a place called Takaya.
Though it’s technically in Tsuruoka City, it’s at a decent altitude with a ski resort nearby.
The campground is set up along a slope, giving a great city view of Tsuruoka from the campsite.
The tent sites are built up with sandbags and leveled with sand, which probably helps with drainage on rainy days.
Reservations are required via phone at “Tsuruoka City Kushibiki Office Industry Division” (0235-57-2115).
The fee is 500 yen per person, same as Takitaro Park, but it’s just 20 minutes to the city center.
Plus, there are two hot spring facilities within 10 minutes—pretty convenient access.
For a car, you can pack a cooler and easily stock up on groceries, but on a bike, it’s not that simple.
Ideally, I’d like to grab food just before reaching the campground.
After dinner, everything smells smoky, so I’d like to hit the bath before sleeping.
Since night riding is pretty intimidating, having a bath nearby is definitely a plus.
Considering all that, this place is a pretty sweet deal.
Tonight’s dinner was yakitori and chicken gizzards, bought from the super market “Yamazawa Kushibiki” along the way.
The tabletop grill I recently got came in handy, along with the carrier-table combo that took quite some effort to build.
For the grill, I used some leftover charcoal from the home center.
But if you’re touring and camping, “processed charcoal” might be better.
Regular charcoal isn’t bad, but it’s just not that space-efficient.
If you’re aiming for compactness, these kinds of products are pretty promising.
I quickly finished eating and headed out for a night run.
The destination was a hot spring facility called “Kushibiki Onsen Yutown“.
I thought it might be just a super sento with heated water, but turns out it’s an amazing place that uses “100% natural hot spring water, flowing straight from the source—no circulation or reheating.”
Perfect for rejuvenating a body exhausted and drenched with sweat from the scorching heat.
I soaked in the bath until almost closing time and then returned to the campground, feeling the cool night breeze.
But man, it was just so hot that night. I didn’t even bother using the sleeping bag—it was too much.
Maybe it was the typhoon’s influence, because the wind was strong, but the bushes blocked it, so almost no breeze got into the tent.
The next morning started off slow.
It was really hot, and I didn’t sleep well at all.
It’s pretty rare to have such a hot night.
For breakfast, I had bread, eggs, and sausages that I bought at the supermarket the day before.
Just as I was about to start cooking… it started raining.
Using the Daiso iron plate, I made a sunny-side-up egg.
However, the table was slightly tilted, and the egg slipped through the grill’s slit.
No choice but to use the lid of the messtin to cook instead.
Turned out nice and neat—mission accomplished.
But when I tried to put it on the toast, the yolk went all over the place. (laughs)
The morning coffee was a drip pack from Natural Born Style, a café in Shiogama City, Miyagi Prefecture.
I usually only drink café au lait, but you know… sometimes you just want to act cool and go for a straight black when you’re out camping. (laughs)
Gassan 8th Station
It seemed like the rain from earlier was just a passing shower, but who knows what will happen next, so I quickly packed up.
The wind was still blowing strong, and instead of cooling down, it just kept getting hotter.
It’s probably going to be another day over 35°C.
The reason I went up to Gassan Ski Resort yesterday was because I was worried about today’s weather.
If it had been cloudy or rainy, I would have just headed straight home, but since it turned out to be a clear day, I decided to go up to Gassan 8th Station.
The narrow mountain road with continuous hairpin turns would have been soul-crushing in the rain, but today the conditions were perfect.
I even had the luxury of enjoying the scenery as I rode.
However, some sections are blind due to bushes and trees, and large buses carrying hikers also use the road.
It’s a tricky road to pass each other on, so it’s better not to force your way through.
Especially on the downhill, since bikes can’t back up, you need to be extra cautious.
Finally, I arrived at Gassan 8th Station.
The photos are terrible and don’t do it justice at all, but the panoramic view was absolutely breathtaking!
The view was amazing, but the wind was so strong that I thought my bike might topple over.
With all the luggage loaded up, it would have been a disaster if I had parked in the wrong direction.
By the way, I could see some massive rain clouds hanging over Haguro-san in the distance.
Ginzan Onsen
After descending from Gassan, I took the route back home.
On the way back, I headed towards Obanazawa while enjoying the view of the Mogami River.
Normally, I would just ride through the mountain passes straight home, but today I decided to make a stop at Ginzan Onsen.
But before that, I took a break and had lunch at Ginzan Taisho Roman-kan.
I tried the local Yamagata specialty, Geso Ten Mori Soba (squid tentacle tempura soba).
Usually, when it comes to soba, I always go for plain “Mori Soba.”
But after losing so much stamina, I needed a boost, so I went with the fried stuff to recharge my energy.
Replenishing lost water, salt, and calories all at once.
Taisho Roman-kan is not just about food; it also has a great selection of local souvenirs.
With a full belly, I headed to Ginzan Onsen.
It’s a small hot spring town that still preserves the atmosphere of the Taisho era.
Originally, as the name suggests, it was a silver mine.
During its peak, it’s said that the population reached between 200,000 and 300,000. That’s insane.
However, the mine was closed in the early Edo period and later reinvented itself as a hot spring resort.
It’s not on a main road, and it’s tucked away in a cul-de-sac-like spot.
But thanks to being the filming location for the hit drama “Oshin,” it apparently sparked a frenzy (that’s a dead term, I know).
Ginzan Onsen during a three-day weekend is definitely one of Yamagata’s top tourist spots.
Even just getting into the footbath was tough since it was so crowded—I couldn’t get in at the right moment.
By the way, if you’re planning a day trip to Ginzan Onsen by car, you have no choice but to park at the designated parking lot (guests staying overnight have their own accommodation parking).
For folks like me who hate walking or for those with mobility issues, there’s a bus running from the parking lot to the onsen town, so that’s a good option.
Then, trouble struck.
While riding from Ginzan Onsen through Nabekoshi Pass, the carburetor filter fell off.
I hurried back to search, but it seemed to have slipped deep into the bushes—nowhere to be found.
Honestly, if you don’t search with pinpoint accuracy, there’s no way to find it…
If it were a K&N filter, I’d have spent hours looking, but it started raining, so I decided to make a run for home.
It was just over 500 km, so the distance itself wasn’t much.
But I did a little mountain hiking, went to Gassan, and soaked in a hot spring, so it was totally worth it.
I was pretty much on the verge of heatstroke from the insane heat, though. (laughs)
I hope I can go on at least one more trip this year…
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